X300 Emergency boot (trunk) access

Entering the Boot When Nothing Else Works

Accessing the Boot/Trunk is a common task and requires no special tools or experience and the most frequently requested reason is due to being unable to get into the boot because of one or more system failures. Repair Open Time is less than an hour and would cost you here in the UK: £75.00 at an appointed dealer plus parts.
There may come a time when you find yourself locked out of the boot. The dash button does not work, The boot release button on the plinth does not work and you have not yet serviced your lock or worst still the keys are in the boot. Fear not - there still maybe hope.
If neither release buttons work but the battery is charged you most likely have a separate issue relating to the wiring. This fails at the boot hinge and can easily be fixed (once the thing is open) by splicing the loom back together or in the worst case fitting a new boot lid loom. when doing this repair you would be well advised to allow a little extra slack on the cable loom and all the joints should be soldered together and have heat shrink cable sheaving fitted before replacing the loom tape - on no account should blue crush crimps be used or you WILL find yourself with the same problem a few months down the road. These connectors are for "get-me-home" repairs only. To gain access open the boot using the "Black" headed key in the normal way.
If you know the buttons work but your battery is flat. Open the bonnet and locate the + positive bulkhead post and dislodge the connector cover. Connect a second battery via jump leads by clipping the Positive lead to the bulkhead post and the other end to the second battery positive terminal. Connect the black lead to a good earth point in the engine bay and the negative terminal of the second battery. You should now be able to open the boot with the release button(s).	X300 Shown, X308 is in the same area but closer to the wing.
If nether button works, the battery is charged, the wiring is not faulty and you have locked your keys in the boot, the only way in is via the lid panel itself. Start by removing the rear number plate ether by unscrewing it or heating it with a hair dryer if it is the glued on type.
If you’re lucky you will find some convenient holes in the boot lid. We have never seen this on a UK spec car but apparently some swear their's have access holes.
Here are some of the tools you are going need: Drill with variable speed (as you need to drill slowly to avoid the drill bit heating up which not only slows the cutting process but can melt the surrounding paint causing invisible damage), a drill bit, a small screw driver, masking tape, a measuring rule, centre punch, a small hammer and a pencil or fine marker pen.
If no holes are present then you will need to create one. Start by cleaning the area above the latch (directly below the release button) and apply some masking tape.
Draw a centre line from the centre of the release button at 90 degrees to the centre line of the latch. Now measuring up from the lip of the boot lid make a mark at the 4 inch (10cm) point then another 1/2 inch (12-13 mm) to the left of the centre line and mark. Extend both lines to intersect each other and centre punch at the centre point.
Using a 1/4 inch 6-7 mm drill bit in an electric drill set to slow, drill a hole in the rear panel.
You now have access to the upper cam of the latch mechanism. Using an electrician’s 5" (25cm) screw driver poke inside the hole until you feel resistance then flick the tip of the blade to the right. At this point the boot will pop open - if it does not then you are going to need to fish again with the screwdriver.
To finish the job of you will need to apply some paint to the bare metal on the new hole and then install a blind grommet having first put some sealer around the hole. Refit the number plate and get your boot lock out and serviced.