X300 Fuel Pump Replacement

Replacing the X300 and 308 Fuel Pump

Fuel tank submerged pump replacement is actually quite easy with the exception of one bit - disconnecting the feed and return fuel lines which requires tool JD.203 or the ability to be very dextrous. There is a friction clip on the end of the pipe that latches itself to a flange on the tank and once the fuel pipe is located through the hole in the middle trying to pull the pipe out just increases its grip in the inserted end. I didn't have a problem with the feed pipe as some monkey had been there first. I'll explain that later just to give you all a laugh and say glad that wasn't me...

Above left JD203 user directions, Above middle: view of fitted stuffer pin, Above right: Alternative tool to JD203

First step is to remove the CD changer where fitted and all the carpet trim from the boot; both side panels, rear panel and the floor panels the latter of which you should replace with a piece of hard board or some such. Disconnect the power plug to the fuel pump (it’s on top middle of tank) or remove the fuel relay as per the diagram in the relay cover panel. Then crank the engine to depressurize the fuel lines. Lift the car (easy for us as we have access to a post lift). Disconnect the fuel lines with JD.203 or fuel line separator pliers or the use of small screwdrivers - this isn't easy as you can hardly see what you are doing. With the pipes disconnected, plug the ends and then lower the car back down on the ground. Take a note of where the wiring looms go just in case. Then remove the fuel filler lock motor (2 x 8mm nuts) then the five that hold the filler pipe finisher to the body (1 x 8mm nut at the forward edge 2 x 8mm down ether side) and carefully lower it enough to clear the studs. Remove the petrol filler and cover the hole with duct tape or a flat stopper. Slacken the two vertical bolts on the straps and the undo and remove the lower bolts. Suspend the lower mounts up out of your way with string. If not done already disconnect the wiring from the gauge sender and pump. Disconnect the LH Gas strut (viewed from the rear of the car) from its hinge mounting. Pull the clip from the attachment point on the LH side of the tank for the breather tube and slide the flexible part down and off the tube.

Above left: Tank removed, note the feed and return fuel lines in the middle of the picture and the breather tube to the left. Above middle: This is where the two stuffer pins are used to replace the contents of the two tank inlets. Above Right: Steve S from Chicago IL, found this pack of assorted tools for a few bucks in his local auto shop and the one pictured at the top of this page is the one he used

With the aid of an accomplice slide the whole tank toward the back of the car tilting the rear of the tank (part facing you) slightly downward as you do so. Keep an eye on the wiring as you do this as it has a habit of snagging up on the tank as it moves backward. Note there will be some resistance as you pull it out as it has been sat on a rubberised base all its life and is a bit reluctant to just slide out of there. You should soon have moved it forward enough to see the top of the pumps access plate known as the Evaporative Flange (EF) and the tank will now be resting on your makeshift hard board flooring. Release (using pliers if that's all you have) the two clips from the small section of hose that connects the EF to the breather tube in the middle of the tank, then slide the rubber tube off the EF. Using the correct tool or a blunt chisel and rubber mallet tap the lock ring anti clockwise to release it. Mark the position of the EF in relation to the tank and lift the lock ring and EF from the tank. Looking inside the tank, reach down and remove the pump and its mounting from the tank bottom and lift it high enough to undo the worm drive clip (jubilee clip) from the internal feed hose and remove the pump complete with the rectangular filter. Cut the cable tie on the top holding the mount rubber noting its fitment and orientation and carefully, so as not to loosen it, prize the lock washer off securing the filter. Fit the mount and filter to the new pump. The re assembly in the reverse order to the above make really sure not to trap anything as you push the tank back in and replace any O-rings that you come across (one on each feed and return pipes and the seal on the EF). The pipes under the car just push home and should then feel firm as the clips friction grip them. That's about it; 3 hours start to finish including coffee x 3. It should be noted that it’s the same for the single pump as the twin pumped XJR although some descriptions of specific parts will vary slightly. Nearly forgot. Want a laugh? As mention some Muppet had had a go down here before. the pipe that goes from the filter (LH rear wheel area) leaves the filter heading right, it then bends 90 and heads forward then slightly up before connecting to a pulse damper (plastic hose to you and me) turning to the right again. Exiting this pulse damper it turns upward through 90 again heading back toward the rear of the car. Ok simple enough? What we found was that the last 90 turn had been removed and straightened out to rely on the plastic tube - sorry Pulse damper - to complete a full 180 in order to provide enough tension to hold the end of the pipe in the tank thanks to the clip being missing (found the clip under the tank) As a result; the plastic tube had collapsed restricting flow. This made the pump work really hard and that's why bits of it where in the fuel filter. In order to recover from this we were going to reinstate the bend but noticed that the plastic part and the end of the tube where damaged and so grabbed a replacement from the parts department.

Above Left: Exploded Stuffer Pin (EBC 9606) shows the number of components. Above Right: Stuffer pin as supplier from the factory